It is here!!!
Finally, after being postponed for a year, the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games are happening and sport climbing (lead climbing / speed climbing / bouldering) will be part of the Games for the very first time, with Shauna Coxey representing Team GB.
How will it work?
Check out this video where climbing superstar Sasha Digiulian explains the introduction of climbing to the Olympic Games.
When will climbing be on and where can I watch it?
Dates: 23 July-8 August Venue: Tokyo, Japan
Coverage: Watch live on BBC TV, BBC iPlayer, BBC Red Button and online; Listen on BBC Radio 5 Live, Sports Extra and BBC Sounds; Live text, video clips and highlights on the BBC Sport website and app.
Please be aware that the BBC have advised that their coverage will focus on the big medal moments during the Games. Also they will be restricted to showing just two live sports at the same time. The climbing finals clashing with athletics and hockey finals and as a result, they may not be able to show the sport climbing finals live and uninterrupted.
If you tune into the BBC, you can listen to GB Climbing athlete and Paris 2024 hopeful Molly Thompson-Smith providing commentary insight from the BBC studio in Manchester, joined by IFSC commentator, route setter and climbing wall manager Mike Langley and BBC snowsports presenter Ed Leigh.
Climbing Schedule (UK times)
Date |
Start time |
Event |
Tuesday 3 August |
09:00 |
Men's Combined, Speed Qualification |
Tuesday 3 August |
10:00 |
Men's Combined, Bouldering Qualification |
Tuesday 3 August |
13:10 |
Men's Combined, Lead Qualification |
Wednesday 4 August |
09:00 |
Women's Combined, Speed Qualification |
Wednesday 4 August |
10:00 |
Women's Combined, Bouldering Qualification |
Wednesday 4 August |
13:10 |
Women's Combined, Lead Qualification |
Thursday 5 August |
09:30 |
Men's Combined, Speed Final |
Thursday 5 August |
10:30 |
Men's Combined, Bouldering Final |
Thursday 5 August |
13:10 |
Men's Combined, Lead Final |
Friday 6 August |
09:30 |
Women's Combined, Speed Final |
Friday 6 August |
10:30 |
Women's Combined, Bouldering Final |
Friday 6 August |
13:10 |
Women's Combined, Lead Final |
Please note: the schedule may be subject to change. The full Olympic schedule and results can be found here.Who to watch
Go Shauna!!! Friday could see
Shauna Coxsey (GBR) securing a medal after years of build-up to the Olympic debut of sport climbing. Based on recent performance, she is expected to excel in the speed and bouldering sections, meaning her success could depend on how she handles the lead climbing, which measures how far up a wall she can get. The big unknown is how she has recovered from a persistent back injury.
Janja Garnbret (SLO) is widely expected to take gold at this stage.
Don't rule out host gold-winning potential too though with
Miho Nokaka (JPN) and
Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) both at the top of their game.
For the men, we will see the clash of two all-time greats and, at the same time, two starkly different styles, in that of
Adam Ondra (CZE) and
Tomoa Narasaki (JPN). Adam is a tall, technical outdoor climber who cut his teeth on some of the hardest sport routes in the world before transitioning to comps, whereas Tomoa is a shorter in stature indoor climber, known as a bit of a
beta breaker. It will be interesting to see what style lends itself best to the Olympic format. Another favourite is
Jakob Schubert (AUT).
Again, don't rule out more host nation potential with
Kai Harada (JPN) and
Alexander Megos (GER), both strong contenders.
Check out this great article by UK Climbing which looks at -
What does it take to become an Olympic climber?Photo credits:
Olympic Rings Header Image - taken by Matthew Fall at
Edinburgh International Climbing ArenaPhoto of Shauna Coxsey - provided by
Adidas via
Team GBWant to try climbing?